Interpet

If there is something wrong with your fish; they look ill or are dying, or there are water quality problems, we strongly advise that you test your aquarium water.

Use the images and descriptions below to determine what's wrong, then click through for treatment advice.

What is the Nitrogen Cycle?

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Before adding fish to your aquarium there are some important things you need to understand about how the aquarium water remains clean and healthy enough for fish to live in.

The short video below talks you through this process, or read on for more.

The breakdown of fish waste; too much food and dead plant matter will cause toxic compounds – namely ammonia – to build up in the water and kill your fish. As an aquarium is a ‘closed’ environment it means harmful waste can build up quickly because there is not enough water to dilute it or to wash it away, as would be in a pond or river. Thankfully, there is a natural process called the ‘Nitrogen Cycle’, which we can recreate in the aquarium, to convert the toxic waste into safer compounds (The image below explains how this process works).

Nitrogen cycle, inforgraphic, aquarium

This Nitrogen Cycle is carried out by ‘Nitrifying’ bacteria that establish in the biological media of the aquarium filter. These bacteria generally take about eight weeks to grow and reproduce in the filter to large enough quantities to carry out their role in the Nitrogen Cycle.
During this early period, when there are few bacteria, fish keepers often experience fish deaths caused by the build-up of invisible toxic compounds: this is referred to as ‘New tank syndrome’.

Ways to prevent New Tank Syndrome and encourage the Nitrogen Cycle:

  • adding a bacteria based filter starter product speeds up the cycle process
  • starting with a few, hardier fish varieties, and only add new fish over a number of weeks, if not months
  • feed only little amounts in the early days to reduce the amount of waste
  • measure how much of the invisible toxins are in your aquarium with an aquarium test kit
  • for the first six weeks do weekly water changes (20% of your aquarium water volume) to dilute and remove waste and toxins

Understanding Fish Sickness and Stress in the Pond

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Like humans if a Fish becomes stressed it is much more likely to fall ill so fish stress is one of the major causes of disease outbreaks in the pond environment. It is important to understand how fish are stressed, and how to prevent it to keep a happy and healthy pond. Reducing fish stress will cause them to be more active, show better colouration, grow and breed successfully. This will make your pond more enjoyable for you and your fish through promoting natural behaviours.
Water is a more stable environment in all areas than air. Non aquatic creatures like us are designed to cope with rapid fluctuations in our living environment, whereas aquatic creatures will find it stressful to cope with rapid changes to their environment as they are not designed to do so.
The most common cause of fish stress is poor water quality often caused by the build-up of fish and plant waste – after all fish live in their own toilet! The breakdown of this waste releases toxic chemicals like ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as well as causing fluctuating pH levels, these negatively impact your fish and create stress. A fully mature and well maintained filter will process the fish waste safely and effectively but problems often occur in new ponds or in Spring when the filter is immature or if the filter is not well maintained.
Water quality problems are not visible to the naked eye so the only way you can monitor them is with regular use of water test kits.
If you maintain a stable, stress free, environment then your fish’s natural immune system will generally fight off the disease causing organisms like fungus, bacteria and parasites which are present at safe levels in even the cleanest of ponds.

Below is a breakdown of the factors which create stress for the fish in your pond:

  • Fish waste levels – the presence of ammonia or nitrite will increase stress; actions should be taken to eliminate them. The presence of these toxic chemicals indicate a problem with your biological filter which should safely and effectively remove them. The filter breaks these down into less toxic nitrate – very high levels of nitrate cause algae and should be diluted by carrying out water changes.
  • Temperature – although pond fish are in unheated water conditions, fluctuating temperatures can still negatively affect their health. Make sure, when moving fish, that they are moving to and from a similar temperature of water to prevent a shock to their systems. Outdoor temperatures are impossible to control, however it is important to take precautions at the heights of summer and winter to ensure there is sufficient oxygen in the pond. Using a heater in the winter to maintain an ice free area for gaseous exchange and increasing water flow and aeration in summer because warm water does not hold as much oxygen. Rapidly topping up the pond with a cold water hose will create pockets of very cold water, it is best to top up gradually with a low flow rate.
  • Physical stress – rough handling of fish when netting them or garden predators like cats and herons add stress to the community as will excessive vibrations caused by people throwing stones into the pond or disruption to the ground surrounding the pond.
  • pH – high pH of above 8.5 or low pH of below 6.5 for a community of pond Goldfish, will cause unnecessary stress, regular testing and water quality maintenance is important. Sudden changes in pH of more than 1.0 will also severely stress your fish – environmental pollutants can affect the pond’s pH including heavy rain and the run off from concreted areas around the pond. Regularly monitor the levels of pH in the pond to catch fluctuations before they become a significant issue.
  • Environmental Pollution – the pond is an open environment and can be easily polluted by a variety of garden chemicals (herbicides/pesticides), chemical pollutants introduce through run off from rain, detergents, pollutants in the air or leaching from concrete garden structures. Be aware of the products you are using around the pond, taking appropriate precautions to prevent contamination and consider the pond’s position when starting a new pond to avoid pollutants becoming an issue.
  • Oxygen – A common sign of low oxygen levels is your fish gasping at the water’s surface. Oxygen levels can be reduced by: Poor water circulation; high water temperatures; high levels of organic waste; oily food coating the surface and some Fish medications. Good pond maintenance should minimise organic waste levels and you should ensure high levels or aeration and circulation when water temperatures are high during summer, or when using treatments. You can increase surface movement by introducing features like waterfalls and fountains. Air pumps will increase circulation and break up the surface of the water, they will also serve as a back-up if your pump were to stop. When plant levels are at their maximum during the summer months, and water temperatures are the highest, oxygen will deplete at night when plants are using oxygen rather than producing oxygen. This will be the time of most stress in the pond.

Avoid fish stress if at all possible but if you know you cannot avoid a stressful situation, for example when adding new fish to the pond or at times of high temperatures, then you can help your fish to cope better by:

  • adding a tonic salt like Blagdon’s Pond Guardian Pond Salt. This physiological salt helps fish to manage their internal salt levels more effectively freeing up energy for their immune systems to fight disease more successfully. Salt also provides anti septic properties. We always advise using Pond Guardian Pond Salt when using Blagdon treatments to support the fish and increase treatment success.
  • Carry out a preventative treatment of Stress Away this will negatively impact the natural population of fish disease organisms in the pond to help the stressed fish whose immune system is not working fully.

Understanding the Pond Environment

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When starting or maintaining a pond, it is important to understand how the environment works. Whether you are keeping a wildlife or fish pond, the natural processes will be the same however factors like fish stocking levels will change how much pressure you are putting on these processes, and how you can support them.

 

One of the main biological processes in any water system is the nitrogen cycle. This cycle is how waste products like fish waste, plant decay and general organic sludge are broken down and processed by a variety of different useful bacteria. These waste materials are broken down through the nitrogen cycle to remove toxic chemicals and turn them into healthy nutrients which plants use to grow. The nitrogen cycle works like this:

nitrogen-cycle-diagram-1

The various good bacteria used to process waste in this cycle are naturally occurring in water, gravel and surrounding soil. As your pond matures, the levels of bacteria will slowly increase in line with the amount of waste produced. In the early stages of your ponds development, the levels of bacteria will not have built up sufficiently quickly to support the life in your pond so supportive treatments like Bio Start can be used to boost bacteria levels.
There are also various ways to support the rapid and healthy development of these essential bacteria populations:

  • Eau natural – Bacteria will develop on any surface in the pond to help process waste. This will not be sufficient for an ornamental fish pond where the population of fish are sustained by feeding. This additional food adds nutrients to the pond system and means it is essential to have a biological filter to maintain water quality – see below. Having a strong plant presence in the pond will also help to balance the water quality as they will use nitrates and phosphates for growth.
  • Pond pump – the addition of a pump aids the biological balance of the pond by introducing oxygen stopping it becoming stagnant and smelly. Pumps are often used to create fountains and water falls which circulate water and break up the surface of the water, adding oxygen. To ensure the correct level of circulation (moving water from the bottom of the pond to the surface) your pump should have a flow rate (described in lt/hr) of half the pond’s volume per hour e.g. 1000litre volume pond = 500lt/hr pump circulation. This will not be sufficient for an ornamental fish pond where the population of fish are sustained by feeding. This additional food adds nutrients to the pond system and means it is essential to have a biological filter to maintain water quality – see below
  • Pond filters – filters are designed to specifically help create healthy water quality in your pond. Pond filters can be housed outside or inside the pond depending on the style of pond and space available. Filters require a pump to circulate pond water through the media (in-pond filters often have a built in pump). There are a variety of creative ways to disguise external filters like creating waterfalls or well-designed planting. A pond filter contains a specific high surface area biological media which make the ideal home for the bacteria which carry out the nitrogen cycle. The water is circulated through the biological media and supplies the bacteria with a steady supply of waste chemicals and the oxygen they need to process them. Filters will also have media to remove visible waste (mechanical filtration) to keep the pond water clear.

The other thing to remember is that ponds are an open environment meaning they can be polluted by outside sources like: run off from heavy rain, garden chemicals, detergents, concrete etc. It is important to be aware of possible pollutants as they can change the quality of the water and make it unhealthy for fish and wildlife.

Here are a few top tips to keep your pond environment working properly ensuring it remains healthy for fish, plants and wildlife

  1. Filter bacteria take a long time (up to 8 weeks) to get established on their own you can speed the process significantly when setting up a new pond by adding a bacteria and enzyme product like Bio Start or Clean Pond Pods to get the process started. The bacteria will also be dormant for most of the winter so may need a helpful boost in spring.
  2. Check that your pumps and filters (if installed) are running properly, check the flow and remove any blocages.
  3. Every month:
    1. Maintain your filtration systems and pumps by rinsing the various elements in pond water to clear blockages. Foams will need replacing every now and then
    2. Trim dead plants to encourage new growth.
    3. Remove floating matter with a net and bottom debris with a pond vacuum to prevent excess waste
  4. Top up any evaporation in your pond to dilute waste, always treat the new tap water with a de-chlorinator like Fresh Start as chlorine and chloramine in tap water is designed to kill bacteria which prevents the spread of disease in humans but will decimate the biological filter essential for a healthy pond. Chlorine and chloramine can also damage sensitive gill membranes of fish and other wildlife.
  5. Manage waste levels by using a pond filter and using products like Sludge Buster or Clean Pond Pods which include bacteria that will eat waste.
  6. Most of the toxic chemicals are completely invisible to the naked eye so you need to test your water regularly to check for chemical irregularities. This way you can catch problems early before they have severe effects on the health of your pond.

What is New Tank Syndrome?

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“New tank syndrome” is commonly experienced in the first weeks of a new aquarium and is caused by an immature filter.

New Tank Syndrome is a term used to describe problems that occur due to the build-up of invisible, toxic compounds in an aquarium. It gets its name as the issue is most likely to occur when your filter is maturing when starting a new aquarium. The full population of friendly bacteria can take up to 2 months to establish in your filter to a level where they are able to process all the waste being produced by your fish.

New tank syndrome is extremely common and can be a very frustrating and upsetting start to fish keeping as it often results in the death of your lovely fish. However, understanding its causes can help you to minimise or avoid problems completely.
Understanding the role of your filter and particularly the chemistry of the biological filtration bacteria driven “Nitrogen cycle” before you start your aquarium is the best way of stopping new tank syndrome starting in the first place.

The Nitrogen Cycle is a natural biological process that which occurs in your filter and helps to maintain a healthy environment for your fish. The image below explains how the Nitrogen Cycle works, bacteria living on the biological media in your filter change very toxic Ammonia excreted by fish and the breakdown of waste into less toxic Nitrite and then to relatively safe Nitrate.

Nitrogen Cycle

However, this Nitrogen cycle process takes a while to establish in a new filter you can help avoid toxic waste build up causing New Tank syndrome by:

  • Adding a product like Fast Filter Start with your first couple of fish which will help your filter bacteria mature faster.
  • Introduce fish gradually starting with a few “hardy” varieties which can cope with the waste levels in a new aquarium. Once the filter is mature (the whole Nitrogen cycle is established so that there is no Ammonia or Nitrite) slowly add a few fish at a time until you reach the advised maximum stocking level for your aquarium, this allows the friendly bacteria to grow to match the waste being produced by the fish.
  • Feed sparingly to begin with, fish need a lot less food than many people think and are used to going long periods in the wild without food. It is crucial in the first few weeks to feed sparingly once or twice a day removing any uneaten food after 5 minutes. More fish die of over feeding than underfeeding and the excess food will make the filter’s job a lot harder.
  • Monitor your water quality! Many water problems are invisible to us so don’t just sit back assuming everything is ok in there. Test the levels and make a note of the results, it’ll make it much easier to fix a problem later.
  • Carry out regular water changes – 25% once a week in new aquariums- this removes and dilutes toxic waste compounds (ammonia and nitrite) to help whilst the filter matures. Later you will be able reduce water change frequency to once a month.

Just remember that patience and vigilance are key. Don’t rush, enjoy your aquarium.

What does my filter do?

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Your Filter is the most essential piece of equipment in your fish tank. Like every other household pet, fish need a healthy environment. Because dogs and cats have largely the same environmental needs as ourselves, we are much more aware of conditions that could be upsetting our pets. A fishes “watery world” is completely different from our own and so we need to work actively to understand and maintain their environment. Filtration plays a crucial role in making that job a lot easier.

Aquariums are a closed system and any waste or dirt produced by fish and plants remains trapped in the water, so if you do nothing about it the aquarium rapidly turns into an unhealthy sewer.

That’s where your filter comes to the rescue by acting like a mini sewage treatment processing plant. The filter creates a healthy environment by:

  • Mechanical Filtration – Trapping dirt and physical waste to make the water crystal clear
  • Biological Filtration – Beneficial bacteria living on the filter media process fish waste, creating healthy water
  • Chemical Filtration – Removing algae food to prevent algae growth; harmful metals and toxins; nasty odours and organic dyes for crystal clear water
  • Circulation – aerating water to maximise oxygenation and remove Carbon dioxide

 

The video below shows how our CF filter carries out these functions:

 

 The filters biological filtration replicates a natural process called the Nitrogen Cycle, breaking down toxic waste to help maintain a healthy environment for your fish. The image below explains how the Nitrogen Cycle works, changing the very toxic Ammonia excreted by fish and the breakdown of waste into less toxic Nitrite and then to relatively safe Nitrate.

Nitrogen Cycle

In short, your filter is an essential life support system which makes the aquarium habitable for your fish.

Here are a few top tips to keep your filter working properly and the aquarium water perfectly balanced.

  1. Filter bacteria take a long time (up to 8 weeks) to get established on their own you can speed the process significantly when setting up a new aquarium by adding a bacteria and enzyme product like Fast Filter Start with the first fish to get the process started
  2. Check daily that your filter is running properly, check the flow and remove any blockages.
  3. Top up any evaporation in your aquarium, treat the new tap water with a de-chlorinator like Bioactive Tapsafe plus.
  4. Every month
    1. maintain your mechanical filter this is easily done in a cartridge filter by simply replacing your cartridge, otherwise clean or replace other mechanical filter media.
    2. Replace chemical media – carbon and algae pads as these become full up and need refreshing.
    3.  Dose with Fast Filter Start to boost bacteria levels which may have been lowered by filter maintenance.
  1. Biological Filter media, only needs a very occasional rinse every 6 months and should only be washed in aquarium water as tap water contains chlorine which will kill all of the bacteria you have spent months maturing
  2. Most of the toxic chemicals are completely invisible to the naked eye so you need to test your water regularly to check for chemical irregularities. This way you can catch problems early before they have severe effects on the health of your aquarium.
Starting a New Aquarium

Starting a new fresh water aquarium

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1. Positioning your aquarium
Ensure your tank is placed on a level surface suitable for bearing the weight of your full aquarium (every litre of water weighs 1kg so calculate the weight of your aquarium including the weight of the tank itself). Position the aquarium so you can get the maximum enjoyment from it however avoiding:

  • Direct sunlight
  • Extreme temperature variations (next to a radiator)
  • Areas subject to loud noise, vibrations or movement

2. Adding Substrate
Once you’ve picked your chosen substrate make sure to give it a good wash to remove any dirt or dust which will cloud the water. Then pack the substrate in to the bottom of the tank.

3. Adding Décor
Soak any rock, wood or ornaments before adding them to the tank to remove anything that may colour the water or affect the chemical balance of the aquarium (do not use anything other than tap water to clean these items). Décor should always be purchased from a reputable aquatic dealer who can advise on the best conditions for your chosen set up. You can then position these as you wish throughout the tank making open sections and hiding spaces for your fish to explore. It is important to ensure décor is embedded into the substrate and stable to ensure it is not easily undermined by your livestock.

4. Installing a heater
If your livestock require heated water it is now time to install your heater following the manufacturer’s instructions.

DO NOT TURN ON YOUR HEATER YET

5. Installing your filter
Install your filter following the manufacturer’s instructions. Bear in mind that some aquariums come with built in filters and therefore may only need media adding to it whilst others come with a separate filter which must be installed.
(Note – When installing your aquarium or electricals like filters, heating or lighting make sure you create a drip loop in any cables to ensure drops of water cannot reach the mains electricity)

Drip Loop

6. Filling the aquarium
Once all of your hardware is installed and you are happy with the positioning of your décor you can begin to fill your aquarium. Place a plate or small bowl on to the aquarium substrate and carefully pour the water on it. This will help to prevent your substrate being disrupted and clouding.

7. Adding live plants
If you want to have live plants in your aquarium now is the time to add them. Once your aquarium is roughly half full stop filling and start to arrange your plants and begin to embed them into the substrate. It’s important to plan ahead with your plants. Speak to your aquatic retailer to discuss favourable plants for the fish you intend to keep and get a good range of plant heights, spreading from the back of the tank to the front to create a balanced and easily viewable environment. Once all of your plants are in place, carefully fill up the rest of the aquarium.

8. Make the water safe
Once your aquarium is full you can switch on your filter and heater to start preparing the tank for your aquatic friends. You should also treat your water with a dechlorinator like Bioactive Tapsafe Plus to remove harmful chemicals from the tap water and introduce aloe vera to help protect your fish’s delicate skin and gills.

9. Leave your aquarium to settle
Although you’ll probably be excited to start adding fish into your tank you need to let it settle and temperature stabilise to the recommended level before adding any livestock.

10. Adding fish
Once your tank has settled you can now think about adding fish. Speak to your aquatic retailer to get the right fish for your set up. Make sure you’re not going to be overstocking, it’s better to introduce a small amount of fish to start with whilst your filter is still maturing, then add more fish gradually over time. Add a product like Fast Filter Start to the tank when adding your first fish to help your filter cope with the waste they will create and maintain healthy water quality. To better understand the role of filter click here.

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