Interpet

If there is something wrong with your fish; they look ill or are dying, or there are water quality problems, we strongly advise that you test your aquarium water.

Use the images and descriptions below to determine what's wrong, then click through for treatment advice.

What is the Nitrogen Cycle?

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Before adding fish to your aquarium there are some important things you need to understand about how the aquarium water remains clean and healthy enough for fish to live in.

The short video below talks you through this process, or read on for more.

The breakdown of fish waste; too much food and dead plant matter will cause toxic compounds – namely ammonia – to build up in the water and kill your fish. As an aquarium is a ‘closed’ environment it means harmful waste can build up quickly because there is not enough water to dilute it or to wash it away, as would be in a pond or river. Thankfully, there is a natural process called the ‘Nitrogen Cycle’, which we can recreate in the aquarium, to convert the toxic waste into safer compounds (The image below explains how this process works).

Nitrogen cycle, inforgraphic, aquarium

This Nitrogen Cycle is carried out by ‘Nitrifying’ bacteria that establish in the biological media of the aquarium filter. These bacteria generally take about eight weeks to grow and reproduce in the filter to large enough quantities to carry out their role in the Nitrogen Cycle.
During this early period, when there are few bacteria, fish keepers often experience fish deaths caused by the build-up of invisible toxic compounds: this is referred to as ‘New tank syndrome’.

Ways to prevent New Tank Syndrome and encourage the Nitrogen Cycle:

  • adding a bacteria based filter starter product speeds up the cycle process
  • starting with a few, hardier fish varieties, and only add new fish over a number of weeks, if not months
  • feed only little amounts in the early days to reduce the amount of waste
  • measure how much of the invisible toxins are in your aquarium with an aquarium test kit
  • for the first six weeks do weekly water changes (20% of your aquarium water volume) to dilute and remove waste and toxins

Why should I use Aqualibrium salt in my Freshwater Aquarium

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Fish stress is one of the major causes of disease outbreaks in your aquarium. It is important to understand how fish are stressed, and how to prevent it to keep a happy and healthy tank.

Aqualibrium First Aid Salt Additive can be used to alleviate the impact of stress on your fish and can be used regularly as a preventative or at times when you know your fish are likely to be stressed such as: in a new aquarium, when new fish are added or when treating for diseases.

Freshwater fish have to invest a lot of energy keeping their internal fluid salt concentration from being diluted by the influx of water across the gills. Increasing salt levels in the aquarium reduces the water influx and releases energy which can be used dealing with stress and fighting disease.

We would recommend using Aqualibrium alongside any Interpet First Aid Treatment as it will help to support the fish’s immune system for successful recovery.

Watch the video below to understand how to use Aqualibrium salt effectively in your aquarium

What is New Tank Syndrome?

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“New tank syndrome” is commonly experienced in the first weeks of a new aquarium and is caused by an immature filter.

New Tank Syndrome is a term used to describe problems that occur due to the build-up of invisible, toxic compounds in an aquarium. It gets its name as the issue is most likely to occur when your filter is maturing when starting a new aquarium. The full population of friendly bacteria can take up to 2 months to establish in your filter to a level where they are able to process all the waste being produced by your fish.

New tank syndrome is extremely common and can be a very frustrating and upsetting start to fish keeping as it often results in the death of your lovely fish. However, understanding its causes can help you to minimise or avoid problems completely.
Understanding the role of your filter and particularly the chemistry of the biological filtration bacteria driven “Nitrogen cycle” before you start your aquarium is the best way of stopping new tank syndrome starting in the first place.

The Nitrogen Cycle is a natural biological process that which occurs in your filter and helps to maintain a healthy environment for your fish. The image below explains how the Nitrogen Cycle works, bacteria living on the biological media in your filter change very toxic Ammonia excreted by fish and the breakdown of waste into less toxic Nitrite and then to relatively safe Nitrate.

Nitrogen Cycle

However, this Nitrogen cycle process takes a while to establish in a new filter you can help avoid toxic waste build up causing New Tank syndrome by:

  • Adding a product like Fast Filter Start with your first couple of fish which will help your filter bacteria mature faster.
  • Introduce fish gradually starting with a few “hardy” varieties which can cope with the waste levels in a new aquarium. Once the filter is mature (the whole Nitrogen cycle is established so that there is no Ammonia or Nitrite) slowly add a few fish at a time until you reach the advised maximum stocking level for your aquarium, this allows the friendly bacteria to grow to match the waste being produced by the fish.
  • Feed sparingly to begin with, fish need a lot less food than many people think and are used to going long periods in the wild without food. It is crucial in the first few weeks to feed sparingly once or twice a day removing any uneaten food after 5 minutes. More fish die of over feeding than underfeeding and the excess food will make the filter’s job a lot harder.
  • Monitor your water quality! Many water problems are invisible to us so don’t just sit back assuming everything is ok in there. Test the levels and make a note of the results, it’ll make it much easier to fix a problem later.
  • Carry out regular water changes – 25% once a week in new aquariums- this removes and dilutes toxic waste compounds (ammonia and nitrite) to help whilst the filter matures. Later you will be able reduce water change frequency to once a month.

Just remember that patience and vigilance are key. Don’t rush, enjoy your aquarium.

What does my filter do?

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Your Filter is the most essential piece of equipment in your fish tank. Like every other household pet, fish need a healthy environment. Because dogs and cats have largely the same environmental needs as ourselves, we are much more aware of conditions that could be upsetting our pets. A fishes “watery world” is completely different from our own and so we need to work actively to understand and maintain their environment. Filtration plays a crucial role in making that job a lot easier.

Aquariums are a closed system and any waste or dirt produced by fish and plants remains trapped in the water, so if you do nothing about it the aquarium rapidly turns into an unhealthy sewer.

That’s where your filter comes to the rescue by acting like a mini sewage treatment processing plant. The filter creates a healthy environment by:

  • Mechanical Filtration – Trapping dirt and physical waste to make the water crystal clear
  • Biological Filtration – Beneficial bacteria living on the filter media process fish waste, creating healthy water
  • Chemical Filtration – Removing algae food to prevent algae growth; harmful metals and toxins; nasty odours and organic dyes for crystal clear water
  • Circulation – aerating water to maximise oxygenation and remove Carbon dioxide

 

The video below shows how our CF filter carries out these functions:

 

 The filters biological filtration replicates a natural process called the Nitrogen Cycle, breaking down toxic waste to help maintain a healthy environment for your fish. The image below explains how the Nitrogen Cycle works, changing the very toxic Ammonia excreted by fish and the breakdown of waste into less toxic Nitrite and then to relatively safe Nitrate.

Nitrogen Cycle

In short, your filter is an essential life support system which makes the aquarium habitable for your fish.

Here are a few top tips to keep your filter working properly and the aquarium water perfectly balanced.

  1. Filter bacteria take a long time (up to 8 weeks) to get established on their own you can speed the process significantly when setting up a new aquarium by adding a bacteria and enzyme product like Fast Filter Start with the first fish to get the process started
  2. Check daily that your filter is running properly, check the flow and remove any blockages.
  3. Top up any evaporation in your aquarium, treat the new tap water with a de-chlorinator like Bioactive Tapsafe plus.
  4. Every month
    1. maintain your mechanical filter this is easily done in a cartridge filter by simply replacing your cartridge, otherwise clean or replace other mechanical filter media.
    2. Replace chemical media – carbon and algae pads as these become full up and need refreshing.
    3.  Dose with Fast Filter Start to boost bacteria levels which may have been lowered by filter maintenance.
  1. Biological Filter media, only needs a very occasional rinse every 6 months and should only be washed in aquarium water as tap water contains chlorine which will kill all of the bacteria you have spent months maturing
  2. Most of the toxic chemicals are completely invisible to the naked eye so you need to test your water regularly to check for chemical irregularities. This way you can catch problems early before they have severe effects on the health of your aquarium.

Measuring Interpet Treatments

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The new and improved Interpet treatments are easy to use and even more effective. Interpet Treatments have been improved with new formula’s and striking new packaging, with even more tools to make sure you get the right treatment for your aquarium problem.

Use our Diagnose What’s Wrong page to identify your fish and aquarium problems quickly, simply and confidently or browse through the range using the product drop down menu.

Remember that you can also use our dosage calculator to make sure you’ve got the right dose for your tank.
Use the videos below to confidently measure your treatments

 

Interpet Water Treatments

 

Interpet First Aid Treatments

How to do an aquarium water change

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Water changes should be a regular part of your maintenance routine. You should perform a 25% water change alongside cleaning your filter and a general tank clean up every 28 days. However, there may be other times where you need to perform a water change including: after testing water quality, treating for disease or when starting a new aquarium.

The video below runs you through the process of a water change to make sure you get the job done efficiently:

Syphoning_Water

How to do a water change and clean your aquarium

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What will I need?

  • Bucket
  • Gravel cleaner
  • Fish Net
  • Service pack for you filter media
  • Magnetic algae cleaner
  • Dechlorinator – Bioactive Tapsafe
  • Test Kits

Step 1:
Start by testing your aquarium water for Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite and the pH level. Follow the instructions on the testing kit and make sure to keep a record of your results. By testing your water now you can then address any issues you may have as part of the water change and you have a record to come back to when you test in the future.

Step 2:
Turn off all power to your aquarium including your heater if installed. This is for the safety of both you and your fish.

Step 3:
Put the gravel cleaner into the aquarium with the tube end pointing into your bucket. Start the water syphon following the gravel cleaner instructions and begin to remove water from the tank. As the water is sucked out you can push the gravel cleaner into your substrate this will remove any waste that has settled on the bottom of the aquarium. Do this throughout the whole aquarium but keep an eye on the water level as you only want to remove around 25% of your water.

Step 4:
Once you’ve removed 25% of the water you can begin maintenance on your aquarium, this may include:

  • Removing any dead leaves
  • Trimming plants
  • Clearing algae by sliding the magnetic cleaner over the aquarium glass
  • Removing rocks, plastic plants and ornaments and cleaning them using the Interpet plastic plant and ornament cleaner .

Give your aquarium a general spruce up, trying not to disturb your fish too much.

Step 5:
Whilst the water level is still low you can replace the filtration media in your filter. Replace the cartridges using the right service packs for your filter. Some media, like sponges, may need rinsing through to clear any small blockages. NEVER clean your filter media in tap water always use the water that you’ve removed from your aquarium (that’s why we suggest collecting it in a bucket). Cleaning in tap water will kill all the clever bacteria you’ve spent months harvesting in your filter.

Step 6:
Once you’ve finished all the maintenance tasks you can dispose of the old aquarium water (perhaps use it to water the garden) and refill your bucket with tap water. Before you can add this water to your aquarium you need to treat it with a dechlorinator like Bioactive Tapsafe to remove any harmful minerals. You also need to be aware of the temperature of your aquarium; if you have a tropical tank you need to heat your water to a similar temperature as the aquarium and for a cold water tank let the water settle to room temperature.

Step 7:
Carefully fill your tank back up to the suggested volume (never higher that the maximum fill line of the aquarium). Make sure you do this carefully to avoid disrupting your fish, substrate or clouding your water.

Step 8:
Make sure to continue testing your aquarium water regularly (at least monthly). Water issues are invisible to us most of the time so regular testing is a must to keep your fish and aquarium healthy. You should be testing for levels of Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrate as well as the level of pH. You can do all of this using an Interpet Test Kit.

Understanding Fish Sickness and Stress

Understanding Fish Sickness and Stress

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Fish stress is one of the major causes of disease outbreaks in your aquarium. It is important to understand how fish are stressed, and how to prevent it to keep a happy and healthy tank.
The most common cause of fish stress is poor water quality often caused by the build-up of fish and plant waste. The breakdown of this waste releases toxic chemicals like ammonia, nitrate and nitrite as well as causing fluctuating pH levels, these negatively impact your fish and create stress. A fully mature and well maintained filter will process the fish waste safely and effectively but problems often occur in new aquariums where the filter is immature or if the filter is not well maintained.
Water quality problems are not visible to the naked eye so the only way you can monitor them is with regular use of water test kits.
If you maintain a stable, stress free, environment then your fish’s natural immune system will fight off the disease causing organisms like fungus, bacteria and parasites which are present in even the cleanest of aquariums.
Below is a breakdown of the factors which create stress for the fish in your aquarium:

  • Fish waste levels – The presence of ammonia or nitrite will increase stress; actions should be taken to eliminate them. The presence of these toxic chemicals indicate a problem with your biological filter which should safely and effectively remove them. The filter breaks these down into less toxic nitrate – very high levels of nitrate can also stress sensitive fish and should be diluted by carrying out water changes.
  • Temperature – Tropical fish will become stressed if the temperature is consistently too high (above 29oC) or too low (below 21oC). A good heater will maintain aquarium temperatures at 24/25oC which is a safe level for the majority of tropical species. Sudden changes in water temperature will also severely stress fish – avoid this by taking care to match water temperatures when changing water and gradually acclimatising fish when introducing them into new aquariums.
  • Environmental stress –  Sudden changes to the aquarium environment such as: knocking, bangs or sudden vibrations to the aquarium, or turning lights on and off
  • Physical stress – Rough handling of fish when netting them or carrying out aquarium maintenance will severely stress fish. Avoid handling them and if you have to, be gentle.
  • Environmental Pollution – Cleaning the exterior or interior of the aquarium with detergents, polishes, aerosols (e.g. deodorants, air fresheners) or other toxic cleaners could pollute the water. The introduction of non-food grade plastics, metal objects or rocks containing metals introduce toxins that could damage your fish. Only use cleaning products and décor designed specifically for aquarium use.
  • pH – High pH of above 8.2 or low pH of below 6 for a non-specialist community aquarium will cause unnecessary stress, regular testing and water quality maintenance is important. Sudden changes in pH of more than 1.0 will also severely stress your fish – avoid this by taking care to match water pH when carrying out water changes and gradually acclimatising fish when introducing them into new aquariums.
  • Oxygen – A common sign of low oxygen levels is your fish gasping at the water’s surface. Oxygen levels can be reduced by: Poor water circulation; high water temperatures; high levels of organic waste; oily food coating the surface and some Fish medications. Good aquarium maintenance will minimise organic waste levels and ensuring high levels of aeration and circulation when water temperatures are high or during treatment will maximise oxygen levels. You can increase surface movement by positioning the out flow of water pumps to disturb the surface and by adding an air pump, with air stone.

Avoid fish stress if at all possible but if you know you cannot avoid a stressful situation, for example when adding fish to a new aquarium, then you can help your fish to cope better by adding a tonic salt like Aquilibrium First Aid Salt Additive. This physiological salt helps fish to manage their internal salt levels more effectively freeing up energy for their immune systems to fight disease more successfully. We always advise using Aquilibrium First Aid Salt Additive when using Interpet treatments to support the fish and increase treatment success.

Starting a New Aquarium

Starting a new fresh water aquarium

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1. Positioning your aquarium
Ensure your tank is placed on a level surface suitable for bearing the weight of your full aquarium (every litre of water weighs 1kg so calculate the weight of your aquarium including the weight of the tank itself). Position the aquarium so you can get the maximum enjoyment from it however avoiding:

  • Direct sunlight
  • Extreme temperature variations (next to a radiator)
  • Areas subject to loud noise, vibrations or movement

2. Adding Substrate
Once you’ve picked your chosen substrate make sure to give it a good wash to remove any dirt or dust which will cloud the water. Then pack the substrate in to the bottom of the tank.

3. Adding Décor
Soak any rock, wood or ornaments before adding them to the tank to remove anything that may colour the water or affect the chemical balance of the aquarium (do not use anything other than tap water to clean these items). Décor should always be purchased from a reputable aquatic dealer who can advise on the best conditions for your chosen set up. You can then position these as you wish throughout the tank making open sections and hiding spaces for your fish to explore. It is important to ensure décor is embedded into the substrate and stable to ensure it is not easily undermined by your livestock.

4. Installing a heater
If your livestock require heated water it is now time to install your heater following the manufacturer’s instructions.

DO NOT TURN ON YOUR HEATER YET

5. Installing your filter
Install your filter following the manufacturer’s instructions. Bear in mind that some aquariums come with built in filters and therefore may only need media adding to it whilst others come with a separate filter which must be installed.
(Note – When installing your aquarium or electricals like filters, heating or lighting make sure you create a drip loop in any cables to ensure drops of water cannot reach the mains electricity)

Drip Loop

6. Filling the aquarium
Once all of your hardware is installed and you are happy with the positioning of your décor you can begin to fill your aquarium. Place a plate or small bowl on to the aquarium substrate and carefully pour the water on it. This will help to prevent your substrate being disrupted and clouding.

7. Adding live plants
If you want to have live plants in your aquarium now is the time to add them. Once your aquarium is roughly half full stop filling and start to arrange your plants and begin to embed them into the substrate. It’s important to plan ahead with your plants. Speak to your aquatic retailer to discuss favourable plants for the fish you intend to keep and get a good range of plant heights, spreading from the back of the tank to the front to create a balanced and easily viewable environment. Once all of your plants are in place, carefully fill up the rest of the aquarium.

8. Make the water safe
Once your aquarium is full you can switch on your filter and heater to start preparing the tank for your aquatic friends. You should also treat your water with a dechlorinator like Bioactive Tapsafe Plus to remove harmful chemicals from the tap water and introduce aloe vera to help protect your fish’s delicate skin and gills.

9. Leave your aquarium to settle
Although you’ll probably be excited to start adding fish into your tank you need to let it settle and temperature stabilise to the recommended level before adding any livestock.

10. Adding fish
Once your tank has settled you can now think about adding fish. Speak to your aquatic retailer to get the right fish for your set up. Make sure you’re not going to be overstocking, it’s better to introduce a small amount of fish to start with whilst your filter is still maturing, then add more fish gradually over time. Add a product like Fast Filter Start to the tank when adding your first fish to help your filter cope with the waste they will create and maintain healthy water quality. To better understand the role of filter click here.

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